Weaving dreams of prosperity

Teresa Rehman catches up with enterprising women in Guwahati who are making a livelihood by creatively designing Assam's traditional fabrics into trendy outfits

Picture this: Sipping tea with homemade pithas in a cosy living room and choosing from a lavish spread of mekhela chadors and salwar kameezes. Getting tips from the homely designer and casual haggling are part of the package.

All this is becoming a part of life now. Almost every locality in Guwahati boasts of a “neighbourhood designer”. These designers, mostly housewives operating from home, set up their own looms with a few weavers, sewing machines and dyeing units. Most importantly, their skill is publicised by word of mouth, especially at weddings and other functions.

Attending a workshop with some Japanese tourists in 1993 was an eye-opener for one of these new designers, Anita Chetia. “The tourists criticised the Assamese people for not being able to harness the golden thread of Assam -- the famous muga silk,” says Chetia.

“I always took care to dress up tastefully and used to design my own clothes,” she says. Eyes gleaming with pride, she adds, “Once a lady called me at a wedding. I walked towards her but could not recognise her. The lady then said that she had, in fact, identified my clothes and not me.”

This inspired Chetia and she started off with two looms and an initial investment of Rs 10,000. “I took a risk but I told myself that even if my clothes did not sell, I could at least wear them myself. But it was a sellout and my salwar kameezes made out of mekhala chador material have been equally popular.”

With 17 employees, Chetia is today a successful entrepreneur. She participates in the trade fairs regularly. She is also the vice-president of North East Women Entrepreneurs Association. “I feel proud that I am economically independent now,” she says.

Like her, Anjali Das of Ganesh Nagar area of Basistha specialises in embroidery work and had been doing it since 1978. “I do embroidery on mekhala chadors, sofa set covers, table clothes, sarees and salwar kameezes. I feel very happy that I have my own source of income,” says Das.
For Anjana Goswami, the illuminating moment was when she discovered an old chador of her mother-in-law some 17 years back. “I was inspired to weave similar designs. With a loan of Rs 2,000 from my husband, I got eight such clothes made out of akhi thread,” she says. But they were sold out and she got more orders.

Gradually, Goswami expanded her business and now has four looms at home. She also makes gamochas, cotton mekhala chadors and dupattas with different designs. “I am also undergoing training on vegetable dyes at the weavers centre. I intend to experiment with vegetable dyes which also has health benefits,” she says.

Goswami is justifiably proud of her achievements and says, “I could repay the loan I had taken from my husband. I also file my own income tax returns and have got my looms insured. My designs have been bought by Assamese non-resident Indians too.”

Though not a graduate from any reputed fashion schools, these neighbourhood designers are giving some of the well-known fashion designers a run for their money. “I am making wall paintings of these old designs and hope to show them to some of the leading designers of the country,” says Goswami.

Fashion designer Meghna Rai Medhi welcomes this trend. “People are learning about fashion and they should be encouraged. Going to a fashion school is important but it is not imperative if one has talent and skill. Though many of them are not aware of the technicalities, their final product turns out to be quite uncommon and appealing. I don't see this trend as a threat to us designers. in fact, we can join hands and work together,” adds Medhi.

Noted danseuse Garima Hazarika has a passion for collecting traditional tribal designs. “We have seven looms at Mitali Sangha, our organisation. I take care of the designs and colours here and we make Assamese cushion covers, table mats, dupattas and salwar kameezes. I also improvise designs for jewellery,” Hazarika says.

The wedding season is the peak time for these neighbourhood designers. Tultul Bora is “booked” from June to December, designing wedding trousseaus. “I have even bought old and torn chadors and mekhalas for their design. People prefer to come to us as we can match various hues with different designs at a reasonable price,” says Bora.

Chetia adds, “I have designed wedding trousseaus for the entire family at times. I have also designed exotic kurtas for the groom.” Most of these neighbourhood designers admit they did not have the slightest inkling about being so successful. “I never thought that I would be able to start my own business. Initially I used to do embroidery on kanjivaram cloth and gradually shifted to paat. I took a loan of Rs 3 lakh from the State Bank of India,” says Bora.

Minoti Barbara, who operates with her three sewing machines from her residence on Zoo-Narengi road, says, “I started off by designing casualwear, specially designer baby frocks. College girls throng my place and I suggest designs and colours according to their constitution.”
Leena Mahanta started off with two looms and an investment of Rs 10,000 in a bid to help the Bodo women in her neighbourhood in Birubari. “I try to create of fusion of contemporary designs with e traditional assamese designs. People from all over Assam and even designers come to me to collect the textiles,” says Mahanta.

Affordability is one of the main factors why people throng these neighbourhood designers. “If my customers have a limited budget, I also allow them to pay in instalments,” says Mahanta.
Most of these women feel proud that they are making good use of their time. “Instead of whiling away time in idle banter, I feel happy to contribute to the family income and take care of my household at the same time,” sums up Anjali Das.
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